Monday, February 28, 2011
Mike Is A Thief (Y’All), Paula Gets Witchy About Carla’s Greens Plus “Clean Food” Is An Objectionable Phrase (To Me Anyway)
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Top Chefs Discuss Gulf Oil Crisis
Chef John Besh, with his six
Other chefs, including the new Top Chef Master, Marcus Samuelsson, and the Voltaggio brothers, give their thoughts on what will happen to American seafood and how difficult it will be to rebuild.
One message from these chefs, who are speaking from the Aspen Food And Wine Classic, is that chefs have never before been so in touch with where their seafood is coming from. And they will continue to order as much as they can for as long as they can to support the Gulf’s seafood industry.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Top Chef Masters - The Magic Of An Egg
Douglas Rodriguez is the first chef out of the gate. I remember him from Patria, which is now closed. Ola,
Anita Lo, from Annisa in NY, has a Michelin star. “Critic” James says she works the line a lot, which will give her advantage here. She’s playing for SHARE.
John Besh is from
Mark Peel of Campanile in
Kelly comes in and tells them the Quickfire Challenge – Create an egg dish with one hand behind their backs. The judges for this challenge are Gail Simmons, Terry Reish from Chino Valley Egg Ranch and Monica May, executive chef, The Nickel Diner. They have to put an oven glove on the hand they won’t be using. They have 25 minutes.
Wow, this is interesting. Mark Peel’s father was born with one arm and he watched him his whole life. He says if his father could do it, he knows HE can. He wants to do something out of the ordinary. He’s making a fresh duck egg pasta with a light egg olive oil cream sauce.
John Besh is working on Eggs Over Easy Topped With Asparagus.
Anita is having problems cooking one handed and cutting the tops off the shells to use a holder for her eggs. She’s making scrambled eggs with truffles and oyster sauce.
They're all having problems finishing their dishes in time.
Gail: Delicious. Monica: Nicely cooked.
Mark - Fresh Duck Egg Pasta With An Egg And Olive Oil Cream Sauce
Judge Terry wants to know how he made the noodles with one hand. Monica: The texture of the noodles is really nice. Terry thinks it’s bland, though, and so does Gail. Mark realizes at that moment that he’s forgotten the olive oil.
Anita – Soft Scrambled Egg And Shitake Mushrooms With Truffle Oil And Oyster Sauce
Gail: I think it’s beautiful. Monica: It’s lovely. Terry says it may be eaten with a small spoon, but “it’s a big taste in your mouth”.
The judges discuss the dishes further. John’s eggs never finish cooking, which results in him only having ONE partially cooked cocotte for the judges to share. Gail says that part of John’s soft cooked egg tastes like burned grease. Terry says it tastes like a fried egg and nothing more.
Results:
Mark - 2 1/2 stars
John - ½ star
Is that the first time that’s ever happened anywhere??? He’s amazed he got THAT.
Anita - 5 stars
The Elimination Challenge is to create a dinner for Neil Patrick Harris at The Magic Castle in
They have to create dishes which are inspired by a card that they draw from Max. Mark gets Mystery. He thinks that a dish en papillote will be a good choice. Spectacle is the card
Anita gets Illusion, which she says to her means you expect one thing and get something else. She’s going to do Illusion of a scallop. She says she’s not the most theatrical usually, but this will be fun. Mark says the guys feel she’s the one to beat.
They have 250 dollars to shop.
They get to work. John is cute and talks about his military service and how it came in handy during Katrina. Doug says his main mentor was Julia Child and that he watched her instead of cartoons. He’s doing 4 different preparations of duck.
Tom shows up to give them moral support.
Tom says they can tell any story they want with food.
Mark says it’s very tense working against the clock and it reminds him of the James Bond scene with the laser going close to his…well, whatever.
Anita is nervous that
Hold on, are those last two thoughts related in any way?
Mark has never been to the
Mark is happy he gets to go first with Mystery. John says his might flop, but it won’t be boring. Anita has a problem plating her food.
Neil comes in with his buddies. Max tells them the building was built as a private home.
The critics are there - Gael, Gail and James. No Jay?
Mark – Mystery
Isn't that the name of that the name of that weird guy who "peacocks" to get women?
Tai Snapper In Parchment With Garlic Mashed Potatoes And Leeks With Scallion Oil And Dassai Sake
Neil says it’s so delicate. They toast to the first course.
John Besh - Surprise
He asks Neil to assist him with the liquid nitrogen in making a horseradish sorbet.
Salmon Tartare With Cauliflower Blini AND Salmon Roe Salad With Horseradish And Crème Fraiche Sorbet AND Tempura Fried Lobster Wrapped In Smoked Salmon
Neil says his horseradish sorbet ended up as a cream, not completely frozen, and he wasn’t too impressed. Others loved the surprise element of the dishes. Gael liked that he was so enthusiastic about the magic part.
Anita Lo - Illusion
Braised Daikon With Kombu Caviar And Steak Tartare
Btw, are they each doing a 3 course meal? I’m a little confused. No, it seems like they’re each doing just a one off presentation of whatever their theme is, but some of them are including quite few elements in each dish. This is a heck of a lot of food.
Neil says wow to Anita’s dish. It reminds one of the guests of the sawing-the-lady-in-half trick. Max thinks she nailed the illusion part. Someone doesn’t care for the daikon. Neil says this is easily his favorite. He loves the “accoutrements”. Show off!
The chefs in the kitchen are worried about
Spectacle Duck
There’s a plate of fire and ice. Amazing. James is worried about the flames. Max thinks it’s a very impressive spread. Neil doesn’t like it. One of the magicians says he uses a duck in his act.
The judges get to stay for a show by a magician. Eww, he pulls something furry out of his hair.
Back to the Critics Room to be judged:
John wants to surprise the guests with tastes and textures. Gael says the blini being cold was a not-nice surprise.
Gael says that Anita’s dish was like a surrealistic painting. Gail loves it and says it adds to that trick of the senses.
Mark says he was little stumped by his word, mystery. The critics like the paper package. Gail says the sake was the crisp note that went really well with the dish.
Gael thinks John was great in that he attempted to DO magic. She likes Anita’s approach to magic. Gael thinks Mark’s dish was wonderful. James does too.
Scores
John
Diners scores - 2½
Critics – James 3, Gael 3, Gail 3
Total 12 stars
Mark
Diners 4
Critics - Gael 4½, Gail 4, James 3½
Total 18½
John is dismissed to go back to the kitchen.
Diners 3
Critics - Gael 2½, Gail 2½, James 2 stars
Total 13 stars
I don’t get that. I thought the only thing they didn’t like was that the soup needed salt. He’s dismissed too. Mark is up against Anita.
Anita
Diners 4 ½
Critics - Gail 4½, James 4, Gael 4½
Total 22½ stars
Anita wins!
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Part Two - The Finale Of Top Chef Season 5
Hosea’s appetizer gets passed around:
Blackened Red Fish on Corn Cake with Creole Remoulade & Micro Cilantro
Bleh!!! Just kidding. That could be good.
John Besh: He nailed it. Hubert: Great presentation. I loved it.
Stefan’s Appetizer:
Alligator Soup with Celeriac, Parsley Leaves & Puff Pastry
Why do I think they won’t like it? I’m really concerned that Hosea is going to cook decently today and something will go wrong with the others and Hosea will win.
Rocco: This is fantastic. Oh good, I’ve always loved Rocco. Wink, wink. Hubert: the consistency is great. Fabio: Great job. There’s Toby. Yay! Not.
Carla comes out with a big grin and her appetizer:
Shiso Soup with Blue Crab & Chayote Thai Salsa
Susan: Nice concentrated flavor. Tom: Well cooked. Branford Marsalis…What’s he doing there? I love him. He says you could taste the crab. Tory McPhail ,(Executive Chef, Commander’s Palace: Good dish.
Do you think no one had heard of shiso (either, like me) and that’s why they didn’t appear to go into detail about it?
The chefs come out into the dining room and are introduced to everyone that I just mentioned.
Carla’s First Course
Seared Red Snapper over Saffron Aioli, Braised Fennel, Grilled Clam Over A Crouton
John Besh: Something special. Tom: Carla’s dish I liked. I liked the idea. Branford: It tasted great to me. Ti: It reminded me of the first time I went to France and had fish soup. (Probably from the fennel, Ti, and Carla did say she was concentrating on French sauces.) I LIKE TI!
Hosea’s First Course
Tuna Hamachi & Black Bass Sashimi with Fennel Oil, Citrus & Fried Tempura Bits
Ti: I was dying to love Hosea’s dish, but it didn’t pop. Thank goodness, I can breathe a bit.
Fabio: It was good, but missing seasoning.
How is it fair that Fabio is there, when obviously he wants his buddy to win (not that I'm complaining)? Someone else said a little bit of salt would have gone a long way.
Stefan’s First Course
Smoked Salmon & Halibut Carpaccio with Micro Greens, Citrus Vinaigrette & Caviar
Uh-oh! That frozen fish IS a problem. Tom says it’s almost watery. Thankfully, Hubert liked his dish. He liked the technique. Toby thought both Stefan’s and Hosea’s were perfectly executed, but both a little bit bland, whereas Carla’s dish had real personality.
Branford says chefs talk just like musicians.
Carla’s Second Course:
Sous Vide New York Strip Steak with Seared Potato Rod with Merlot Sauce
Gail: Is anyone finding Carla’s sirloin as tough as I am? Yikes! I KNEW THE SOUS VIDE WAS A MISTAKE! Casey went home ONCE, WHY did Carla listen to her? Thank goodness for Ti: The lady can make a sauce. Tom: This doesn’t remind me of her. Okay, it’s all the more mysterious as to why she let herself by talked into this by Casey. John Besh: She lost the soul she had in the first dish.
Stefan’s Second Course:
Pan Seared Squab, Braised Red Cabbage & Schupfnudeln, Foie Gras & Grape Jus
John Besh: Very few American chefs that I know can cook a game bird this well. Gail: The squab was cooked beautifully.
Hosea’s Second Course:
Seared Scallop with Foie Gras on Pain Perdu, Apple Preserves & Foie Gras Foam
Gail: I can’t stop eating it. I love the pain perdu. (Pipe down, Gail. Don’t you have a honeymoon to be on?) Tom: It’s well done and I’ve seen this dish before - foie gras and scallops. Rocco: Maybe it’s only me, but I’m tired of eating foie gras. Go Rocco! Gail looks slightly fed up with him and shakes her head.
Back in the kitchen, Carla says her soufflés are a disaster, because she forgot to turn down the oven. Souffles??! I thought you were going with the cheese tarts. OMG! Did you let Casey talk you out of winning this competition? She decides not to serve them, so there’s just a tiny tart looking thing on the plate. Oh, I guess she was planning to make both.
Stefan’s Third Course
Stracciatella Ice Cream, Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla Syrup & Banana Lollipop
Tory McPhail really likes the progression of Stefan’s dishes and says that his dessert was the best of all. Tom says the mousse and ice cream are fine, but “it’s not like a complete thought”. Huh? My complete thought is that Hosea is getting awfully close to winning this. Gail thought the presentation was dated.
Carla’s Third Course
Apple Tart with Blue Cheese & Walnut Crumble
She admitted that her “blue cheese soufflé didn’t soufflé”. I guess she had to say that, since the plate looked kind of bare. Gail says she’s incredibly disappointed at Carla’s mishap.
Hosea’s Third Course
Pan Roasted Venison, Chestnut & Celery Root Puree with Wild
Mushrooms
That looks so dumb next to the dishes of the other two.
Tom liked this dish a lot. (He WOULD…I guess bald guys stick together.) Gail: He played to his strengths.
Even though it hurts him to say it, Fabio says that Hosea closed the meal in a much better way. Yeah, well, it hurts ME to say that I think Hosea is going to win.
Oh wait, Hubert says if someone is going to be given the title Top Chef, he or she should be able to make dessert. Yeah! Even though, it WOULD BE kind of unfair to penalize someone for that when all they were told is to cook the very best three courses that they could. He says the venison was safe way out.
At the end of the meal, Carla thanks Casey. She SHOULD slap her. Hosea thinks he did fine. He going to face the judges with “his head on high”.
The chefs all come in to judges table. Gail loved Carla’s appetizer. Tom enjoyed the flavors. Everyone had a problem with her meat. Toby goes on for a bit about how anemic her second course was and that they wanted something much bolder from her.
Tom asks how much influence Casey had on her. She says Casey suggested the sous vide and, even though, she had never done it, she said okay, I’ll do it. WHY CARLA, WHY? Tom raises his eyebrows, flares his nostrils and sharply inhales.
She tells them she forgot to turn the oven down. Tom says why a soufflé? She says Casey suggested it. Again…WHY, OH, WHY?
“It seems that you let your sous chef talk you out of the food that got you into the finale” says Tom. He doesn’t understand why. I don’t either.
Toby thought Hosea’s hors d’oeuvres was excellent. Hosea says it was fun to “dole out” the proteins. Tom says, you mean it was fun to stick it to Stefan? Hosea says Stefan would have done exactly the same thing to him. ("MOMMY, Stefan punched me first!" Go to your room, Hosea!)
Toby says his sashimi was very fresh, very light, but he didn’t feel it had enough citrus flavors. Tom and Gail loved the scallop and foie gras dish. Tom thought the apple compote tied it together nicely.
Hosea claims he picked the venison because he wanted to end the meal with something big and robust AND, oh yeah, Hosea, you’re incapable of making dessert! You left out that part. Toby asks if it was bit of a risk not making dessert. Hosea doesn’t give an inch and just says for him a meal doesn’t have to have dessert.
They all liked Stefan’s alligator soup a lot. Gail says his carpacchio tasted watered down. Tom agrees and doesn’t approve of freezing fish to slice it thin. Gail says she really enjoyed his squab. (This is going to be a definite win for Hosea. I’m not looking forward to the end.) Tom on Stefan's squab: Strong dish. Flavorful dish. He thought it was the strongest dish of the night.
Padma asks why they each think they should win Top Chef. Stefan says he thinks he deserves it overall and that he’s been very consistent. I agree. Hosea is like a big puppy begging to be loved. He says he put a piece of himself out there tonight. Wait, I take that back. Puppies are cute. Hosea’s not. Toby grimaces.
Carla says when she cooks HER food, it’s delicious and then she dissolves into tears. Stefan goes to hug her. See? He can be nice. He says, “Don’t cry” in the “stew room”.
Back in with the judges, Padma says I guess we can agree that Carla is out of the running. Tom says decisively, “CARLA would agree that SHE’S out of the running.”
Tom says that Stefan and Hosea come from two different places. Stefan has a more classical background. That’s the understatement of the season. Padma says that, while not as skilled technically as Stefan, there is a thoughtfulness to Hosea’s food. HOLD ON! You said that Stefan is more technically skilled and everyone can agree that his food is great when he’s at the top of this game, so WHY wouldn't that make him a more suitable Top Chef?!!
Toby: Structurally Stefan’s menu was better thought out. Have I mentioned that Toby is a man a great intellect? Maybe Stefan WILL win - they did LOVE his squab after all. But Tom says he can’t get past the dessert. Toby says he didn’t think it was so bad. Have I said lately that I don’t think Toby is so bad?
Tom says the arc of Hosea’s dishes was good. Toby can’t get over Hosea not making dessert.
The others think Stefan doesn’t have soul. Toby, looking a bit disgusted, says if they’re going to give it to the most soulful chef, they should give it to Carla! YEAH! You go, boy!
I’m pretty sure it will be Hosea. Drat! Darn! I SO won’t be happy.
The 3 chefs come back in the room. Tom thanks them all. He says Carla was strong along the way. Hosea put together a nice meal. Stefan had some amazing highs.
Hosea wins!!! I’m soooooooooooo bummed. What a putz. “Who just won Top Chef? Hosea did.” THAT’S Hosea talking. That’s pretty disturbing.
Stefan tells the camera if he had made a different dessert, he would have won. I’m sure he’s right. Stefan says he’s happy for him and he’s not bitter. The other contestants come out.
Hosea says it felt really good to beat Stefan. He’s soooooooooooo insecure. Even his last moment (okay, I get that this is all edited) is devoted to sticking it to Stefan. IT SHOULDN’T BE ABOUT STEFAN! IT SHOULD BE ABOUT YOUR POTENCY (YES, I SAID POTENCY) AS A CHEF!
I'm bummed and dismayed that Hosea won. It was my fear from the first seconds of this episode. He’s a jackass.
Honestly, I can’t imagine anyone being happy that he won.
If you had to describe Hosea's food in a few phrases could you? WELL, could you? NO!
Stefan, you could say, featured well-honed techniques in delicious reworkings of classical favorites (notwithstanding that the judges thought his dessert was fuddy-duddy). Carla did...well, Girl, just good old home cooking with interesting modern ingredients. But Hosea? He likes to cook fish. Whoop-Dee-Doo! I’m not happy at all. Not at all.