Monday, November 30, 2009

'Twas The Night (Actually Two Nights) Before Thanksgiving

If it seems as if I’ve been celebrating Thanksgiving for days, it’s because I HAVE!

My company – friends and some kids – are gone (boo-hoo). I still have a few days worth of food left. Of course, nobody is much interested in it and I’m sure they’ll be wanting Chinese, even though I could eat mashed potatoes and gravy until Easter. I guess that might be risking more than just my culinary reputation.

Okay, this was how the week started:

Tuesday night, I served this wonderful Chicken, Shrimp and Sausage Stew to incoming guests. The only change I made was to halve the amount of sausage. Plus the recipe called for andouille, but I used both andouille and chorizo. Next time, I think I’ll stick with chorizo. I served it with brown and red rice. Muy rico.

BTW, THIS is a superb recipe to make with turkey leftovers. Just leave out the chicken and add the cubed cooked turkey meat ten minutes before the end of the cooking time.

I served it with Petits Pois à la Française. Boil a half cup of water. Add a package of petits pois, a pat of butter, a teaspoon of sugar and a handful of shredded lettuce. Cook, uncovered, until peas are cooked, about 8 minutes.

Dessert was this cake, which I first saw on the talented Deeba’s blog. SHE made it with apples, but this is the original pear cake recipe from the hunky Ricardo of the Food Network of Canada, which I just couldn’t get over.

It was the most unique cake I’d seen in ages. SOOO easy. And I took it upon myself to poach the fruit one day and make and bake the cake the next, which worked very well. I stored the poached pears in the sugar syrup that I had cooked them in. AND I made this before I even saw how gorgeous Ricardo is!


Last Few Hours Of My Latest Cookbook Giveaway

Which cookbook has your favorite Thanksgiving recipe or recipes in it?

Answer that question and win one of two gorgeous cookbooks:

Venezia, a beautiful collection of recipes and photographs of picturesque Venice by Tessa Kiros.

Memorable Recipes by Renée Behnke, the President of the Sur La Table with recipes for entertaining friends and family alike.

The rules:

Send your entry as a comment to this post or to this post (include your email address, if your name doesn’t link to it).

OR

Send me an email at FNMusings@gmail.com entitled Cookbook Giveaway.

Enter the names of up to 5 cookbooks. Each one will count as a separate entry.

This week's contest ends at 11:59 pm Eastern time, Monday, November 30th.

Contest open to US residents 18 years old and above.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving To One And All!


To all my blog readers and buddies -

Have the most wonderful Thanksgiving!

As you’re cooking and cooking and cooking

or helping someone else cook and cook and cook,

enjoy every second –

all the brouhaha leading up to the meal;

the tasting and plating and serving and EATING

and all the time spent together.

So what if a lot of it is wrapping up

and cleaning up

and straightening up!

Sometimes it’s those moments

when you can

interrogate children more effectively

or bond with a mother-in-law

or get to know the special person in your kid’s life.


Cook lots, eat lots

and I’ll raise one glass (at least) to you,

my blogging friends ,

with this toast…

Happy Thanksgiving and…

for goodness sake,

as SOON as your turkey comes out of the oven,

turn it upside down.

You’ll thank me, I promise.

Monday, November 23, 2009

The Last Cookbook Giveaway Of The Month

The winners of last week's Cookbook Giveaway of Andrews McMeel cookbooks are Emily McCoy, Pursuit Of Healthfulness, who wins Cooking The Cowboy Way and Peter Titcomb who wins Barcelona. Congratulations and thanks so much for entering. I'll be in touch to arrange to get your book to you.


This week I’m giving away two more extraordinary cookbooks:

Venezia, a gorgeous collection of recipes and photographs of picturesque Venice by Tessa Kiros.

Memorable Recipes with lots of recipes for entertaining and for family gatherings by Renée Behnke, the President of the fabulous Sur La Table. She also offers plenty of do-ahead tips and great shortcuts.

This week's question to win one of those cookbooks:

Since this is Thanksgiving week, which cookbook has your favorite Thanksgiving recipe or recipes in it?

I would have to say The Joy Of Cooking, which I used for years for roasting a turkey. The recipe involved soaking cheesecloth in oil and butter and covering the breast with it. Now I often put something or other under the skin (stuffing keeps it moist) and cover the turkey with foil when it gets browned.

My go-to apple pie is the Sour Cream Apple Pie from the Silver Palate Cookbook. There may be better apple pies in the world, but I haven’t found it yet.

The rules:

Send your entry as a comment to this post (include your email address, if your name doesn’t link to it).

OR

Send me an email at FNMusings@gmail.com entitled Cookbook Giveaway.

Enter the names of up to 5 cookbooks. Each one will count as a separate entry.

This week's contest ends at 11:59pm Eastern time, Monday, November 30th.

Contest open to US residents 18 years old and above.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Cookbook Giveaway Reminder

This week’s Cookbook Giveaway ends at midnight tonight. Don’t forget to enter by answering this question:

What was the first cookbook you remember using?

Enter here or send an email to FNMusings@gmail.com.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Top Chef Las Vegas – Because It’s Bocuse…Plus Why In The World Did I Cry At The End?

The chefs are getting ready. We learn that Eli is a really good friend, a best man type of really good friend, of Richard Blais. Ick. I think I’m glad I didn’t know that before.

Jennifer talks about how unfocused she’s become.

They’re in the Top Chef kitchen. Oh, now we’re talking. This is truly awesome. Gavin Kayson, the 2007 US competitor to the Bocuse D’Or competition is the guest judge. He says the Bocuse d’Or “tests your fundamentals, your technique, your passion and it really pushes you to a whole new level of cooking.” So what does that have to do with Top Chef??? Kidding...sort of.

The chefs’ Quickfire Challenge is to do a version of Gavin’s Bocuse d’Or dish of a protein inside a protein, INSIDE A PROTEIN. They have 90 minutes. In Amurica, we call that Turducken! I can’t decide if this is ludicrous or just plain insane.

Oh, this is funny. Jen says she’s going to make a Turducken. Great minds…

The winner won’t get immunity, but he or she will get a significant advantage in the elimination challenge. Eli worries that Gavin will find his dish “ludicrous” I’m just a mind reader tonight.

Michael is a complete jerk. He says Jennifer started out strong, but that basically it’s time for her to go. Gosh, I want her to clean his clock.

Eli

Bacon-Crusted Breakfast Sausage With A Six Minute Egg Center

Gavin: “Thank you.”

Michael

“Poultry Terrine” Chicken With Turkey & Bacon Mousseline

“Great.”

Jennifer

Calamari Steak, Scallops, Salmon, Shiitake, Shiso With Rice Noodle Salad

“Why did you choose seafood?” Gavin asks her. She says she’s stronger with seafood. Padma, after tasting her dish, says, “Welcome back.” YES! Take that Michael. Kevin gives Jen an adorable wink. How can you not love Kevin?

Bryan

Rack Of Lamb & Merguez Sausage Wrapped In Caul Fat

“Thank you.”

Kevin

Cornmeal Fried Fillet Of Catfish With Scallop & Shrimp

“Thank you, Chef.”

Bryan starts out kind of nit-picky when he says that Kevin does pretty simple things, far simpler than his own, but he ends with, “Simplicity’s okay, if you do it correct.” Thank goodness, this is American television, where no one cares about grammar.

Who wins the Quickfire? Gavin thinks Kevin’s catfish was overcooked and that the breading dried it out. Kevin disagrees (to us).

Gavin likes Bryan’s lamb. He thinks it was risky to attempt to do so much in the time that they had and that Bryan pulled it off.

Gavin likes the concept of Eli’s dish and he thinks Jennifer’s dish was very successful.

AND, listen to THIS, Gavin thinks Michael’s dish was more like terrine than a ballontine and it didn’t capture what they were looking for. Michael raises his eye brows in disbelief.

And THEN Michael says (to us) that if he had been told to make a ballontine, he would have and he’s pretty sure that it would have been as good as the one that Gavin made in Lyons for the Bocuse d’Or. You know, the one it took him 4 months to figure out how to do, but Michael could have replicated it on the fly in 90 minutes. GMAB!!!!!!!!!!

And the winner is Jen. YES!!! Go girl! You guy chefs can go fly a kite! Jen won! Hah!

The Elimination Challenge is a Top Chef version of the Bocuse d’Or. They have to make a presentation platter with one protein and 2 garnishes that have to be very intricate and show a lot of technical skill. They have to choose either lamb or salmon and present their food on a mirrored platter before the judges.

Jennifer’s prize is that she gets an extra half hour in the kitchen. She’s happy and says she needs it.

They will cooking for 12 judges including members of the American advisory board of the Bocuse d’Or, including dual 3 star Michelin holder, Thomas Keller. Kevin says his The French Laundry Cookbook changed his life and that he’ll never be able to pay back the debt of gratitude he owes Thomas Keller. Padma says they will be judged on Taste, Creativity and Execution.

The chefs go shopping. Back at the house, Michael goes right to bed. The rest of them watch a dvd of the Bocuse d’Or. They see lots of cheering and screaming. Kevin needs help knowing how to sous vide.

Bryan says (to us) that if someone asks him a question and the other person KNOWS he knows the answer, then he has to answer him, because the other person “will think (he’s) a prick”, if he doesn't. Got that? I believe if Bryan thought he could away with it, he WOULDN’T have answered. And he also remarks that his brother probably wouldn’t share information like that. So Bryan, slightly grudgingly I thought, tells Kevin what to do.

They arrive at the kitchen of Alex in the Wynn Hotel.

Oh my, Tom comes in with Thomas Keller. Thomas is very kindly and says it’s just about “putting your head down and going to work”. Tom says that they wouldn’t have sprung this on them, if they didn’t think they could handle it. WAIT FOR THIS!!!! Bryan gives a full out SMILE after hearing those uncustomarily soothing words from Chef Colicchio.

Michael says he’s confident, because he’s done culinary competitions before (a decade ago) and he always did well. Of course, he did.

Jen says this is a huge opportunity for Thomas Keller to see her talents. Oh, here’s the remark they previewed last week. Michael says Kevin’s food has been good, but not challenging and that “the food that Kevin cooks is the food that I cook on my day off.“

Tom comes into the kitchen to chat. He’s okay with all of them, except that Tom wonders why Kevin is doing something in this challenge that he’s never done before. He adds one more thing…the winner will receive $30,000 from the M resort. They’re all thrilled.

He tells us who the judges are – Tom, Gail, Jerome Bocuse (Paul’s son and a vice president Bocuse d’Or USA, Alex Stratta, Traci DesJardins, Daniel Boulud, Gavin and Tim Hollingsworth and Thomas Keller.

Kevin says he’s going to give them complex flavor in a simple presentation.

Kevin

Poached Lamb Loin Caramelized In Lamb Fat And Olive Oil, Sherry Glazed Golden Beet With Parsley Sauce And Pickled Swiss Chard Stems; Baked Asparagus With Sunchoke Cream And Buttered Toast

Gosh!

Keller asks him if the lamb was sustainable. Yes, it is. Tom loves the Swiss chard and the pop the parsley sauce gives it. Daniel likes the lightness of the asparagus. Thomas says he did a great job, but that it was a little elementary for the time he had.

Michael

Cauliflower And Chickpea Plate, Loin Of Salmon Cooked Sous Vide With Crab Zucchini; Tzatziki With Salmon Tartare Served With A Champagne Tomato Nage

Daniel screws up his face a little and asks him about the direction of the dish. Michael says, “Just Mediterranean flavors.” Traci thinks the flavors are really disparate. Tom asks what cauliflower and caviar have to with Mediterranean flavors.

Alex finds a bone in the fish, which he says would have disqualified him at the Bocuse d’Or. Yeah! Tell ’em. Daniel says there is a total lack of harmony.

Jen is awesome as she offers to help Bryan finish and he accepts.

Bryan

Crusted Loin Of Lamb; Crepinette Made With Shank Finished With Caponata; Orzo Pasta Cooked In Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Thomas asks him how he made the garlic chips. Bryan says he puréed the garlic and spread it on acetate and dehydrated it. (If you have a dehydrator at home, you too could garnish dinner like that.) Thomas says nice technique. Jerome Bocuse says he likes the way Bryan plated his dish and that he has some strengths and some technique.

Thomas was very impressed when he looked at the platter, but that he undercooked his lamb. Mon Dieu! Traci says if all the components had been well executed the dish makes a lot of sense, but that obviously he ran out of time.

Tom asks Timothy “How coachable do you think he is?” That’s an odd question. Timothy says he likes his demeanor and the way he talks about food and that Bryan is very knowledgeable.

Eli

Lamb Sausage Wrapped Around Three Different Loins With A Pistachio Crust Served With An Arugula And Tarragon Coulis; Ras Al Hanout (WHERE have we seen that before?) And Carrot Purée And Yogurt Foam; Brioche Crouton With A Tomato And Piquillo Pepper Marmalade

Tom isn’t happy with the differing thicknesses of the lamb. Jerome remarks that the fat in the lamb is undercooked and it’s unpleasant to eat. Thomas is particularly unhappy that Eli ruined a beautiful piece of lamb. Padma says some of the flavors were good, but Daniel says he failed in execution.

Jennifer

Lightly Poached Salmon Topped With Caviar And Enoki Mushrooms; Shrimp Flan With Snap Pea Salad With Truffles; Celery Root Squares And Shitaki Mushrooms

Traci says everything tastes good, but the dish isn’t well thought out. Tom says the dish is all over the place, but most of it tastes pretty good.

Thomas likes the custard with the shrimp the best. Gavin is interesting. He says if Bryan had more time, the vision of his dish could have been executed, while Jen's dish is at a dead end.

Daniel raises his glass to Paul Bocuse and Thomas adds, “For setting an example to us all...”

Gail says she's very proud of them all for cooking as well as they did in just the 12 hours that they had. The chefs come out and the judges applaud them and then Thomas Keller drops a bombshell. He says the winner will be given a spot to compete for the US team for the 2011 Bocuse d’Or.

Bryan tells us that that will be a huge door to be opened if they win this. And that people aspire to that for years. Kevin says (to us) that it would be an honor to represent his country, but that it would scare him to death.

Michael says he hasn’t spent this much time with his brother for years. And that his mother would be proud of them. I beg to differ. I think she would be horrified at their lack of filial affection.

All the chefs go into the Judges’ Table. Tom asks Michael to explain how salmon and caviar are Mediterranean. Tom isn’t particularly satisfied with Michael's answer. Tom says that in a competition of this gravity, there isn’t that much “poetic license to play around like that”.

See, smarty pants, you don’t know everything! And then Gail says Chef Stratta found a bone in his piece. Tom does say that parts of the dish were great, “I just don’t understand the direction.”

Jerome Bocuse says Bryan’s lamb was underdone. Bryan apologizes, but says he didn’t want to take it past rare to medium rare. Jerome says with great authority and in a very heavy Frennncccsssshhh accent, “I zink we all agree that wit more time, eet would be a different dish.”

Jerome tells Kevin his dish was very simple. Kevin is uncharacteristically verbose and talks very slowly and clearly (because he’s talking to a foreigner?) using the word “componentry”. Are we talking about stereo systems or food? Tom says the chefs around the table felt that it was too simple for four hours of work.

They weren’t happy with how Jennifer cooked the salmon. Jerome says it wasn't cooked properly.

Eli is next. Gail liked the idea of the sausage, but said that there were big pieces of fat that weren’t cooked enough. Eli thought it didn’t need to be cooked all the way through. Tom interrupts him and says “It was really undercooked.”

That’s it. Eli is going home. Michael is a jerk, but Eli’s couldn’t be eaten, which cannot be a good thing in a cooking competition. Jerome makes the point that if it had been lean meat, he might have been able to get away with it, but not with so much fat.

Tom says it’s been a pleasure watching all of them. Kevin says that means a lot.

The judges go back and forth. Frankly, there were so many mistakes from everyone. How will they choose? I still think Eli will go. Tom says because Kevin’s dish was so simple, it would be immediately dismissed in competition. But Jerome says something surprising. He says because each element was actually cooked properly, Kevin has the advantage over the others.

I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING! The reason Tom asked if Bryan was coachable, was referring to competing in the Bocuse d’Or. I could absolutely see him there. He has the right temperament. Does that mean he’ll win? But there were a lot of problems with his dish. I just can’t see Kevin at the Bocuse d’Or. So I don’t know what they’re going to do about a winner.

And the winner is…Kevin. THAT’S a surprise. Jerome gives him a Bocuse d’Or chef’s jacket and lots of reading material. Kevin says the M resort is his favorite place. He’s really thrilled.

And the loser is…Tom says it’s going to be hard to see any of them go… the loser is Eli. And, OMG, I’m crying. Why? Because he’s so sweet as he says how proud he is of how he did. He thanks the judges so sincerely for the opportunity and he says (to us) that he can stomach leaving now because of how far he got in the competition. I’m still crying…He says his family and friends (wait, someone’s coming in the room, let me get a tissue!) will be proud of him. I’M PROUD OF YOU TOO, ELI! I’m not sure why, but I am. Jen gives him a giant heartfelt hug. Give him one for me too. He says the people who beat him are fantastic chefs.

Tom tries to console the remaining chefs, well, Jennifer anyway, and congratulates them for getting to the finals. Eli breaks down a little bit too and Jen wipes tears from her eyes. I need another tissue.

Incidentally, just for one second, try to imagine Robin in this episode. It gives you brain freeze, doesn’t it? It’s just impossible to compute. She had none of the chefly skills that we’ve seen all season from the last four chefs standing.

Next time - Napa. THIS is what I hope happens:

I’d love it if Jen could make it to the finals…just to help her with her own issues. That means one of the guys would have to go. Guess who I’d like to be shown the door? Michael is really proving himself to be repulsive. I wish he could learn that no man, and certainly no chef, is an island onto himself.

So I’d like to see the final three be Bryan, Kevin and Jennifer. I’m guessing Kevin could easily win, because his food apparently just tastes so good. But I do think Bryan has the technical chops to be called Top Chef.

More about the Bocuse d'Or here.


More About The Bocuse d’Or

Kevin earned the right to compete for the 2011 Bocuse D’Or, but that doesn’t assure him a place at the table in Lyons. He still has to compete with other American chefs.

The Bocuse D’Or evolved from a professional cooking exhibition and trade fair that took place in Lyons, France. Paul Bocuse, as honorary chairman of that event, came up with the idea to have a cooking competition component in front of a live audience. The first Bocuse D’Or was held in 1987.

First prize is 20,000 euros and a gold statue of Paul Bocuse in Chef’s garb, second prize is 15,000 euros and third is 10,000 euros.

It was a pretty brilliant idea. Remember the Food Network didn’t even start broadcasting until 1993. There were no nightly televised food competitions. There were not the number of food-centric shows that there are now.

This unique idea started out calmly enough until 1997, when the Mexican team engendered support from the audience with mariachi bands and cowbells, which now is a staple at the bi-annual competition. (The cowbells, not the mariachi bands.)

There are 24 teams composed of a lead chef and young (22 years old) commis chef. They have 5 hours and 35 minutes (I’m guessing they are extremely grateful for that extra 5 minutes) to to make one meat and one fish dish, each surrounded by three imaginative, complicated garnishes, executed with precision.

The teams work in side by side stadium style kitchens. No cooking in advance is permitted, except for stock and measuring out of certain ingredients. Each ingredient, including intricately turned vegetables, is prepared within the allotted time. They know which proteins they’ll be cooking well in advance.

In 2007, after Gavin Kaysen came back from his chance to win gold in Lyons, he said he wished he had had some of the same support that the other teams (many European ones) had with their budgets in the realm of 1 million dollars (for training). These chefs take months off to do nothing but train in specially designed replica kitchens, which gives them a tremendous advantage.

Gavin had to buy his own equipment and had nowhere near the same time to prepare as his competing chefs did. He placed 14th in part because, during the competition, a FRENCH dishwasher ATE one or two of his garnishes! How much of an accident could THAT have been?

Paul Bocuse, himself, was interested in upping the US’s presence. His son, Jerome Bocuse, presides over the Chefs de France restaurant at the Epcot Center and is on the board of Bocuse d’Or USA.

Chef Paul Bocuse recruited Thomas Keller, to be President of the Bocuse d'Or U.S. team and Daniel Boulud to be its chairman. They met the challenge.

A test kitchen was built next to Keller’s French Laundry. Timothy Hollingsworth, the US chef chosen to compete at the next Bocuse d’Or, was given a 3 month paid hiatus from his job behind the stove at the French Laundry to train with a coach. He came in 6th, which tied the previous highest showing for an American. There was disappointment, though, because of all the resources that had been thrown his way (although still not as many as the Europeans).

When I’ve watched the Bocuse D’Or, it’s been absolutely fascinating. I sat there open mouthed at the phenomenal complexity, the fastidious execution, holding my breath at the final products, miraculously standing tall, defying every law of gravity.

But the Bocuse D’Or is a competition, not a television show, although it is televised in excerpted form. We see only a tiny part of what goes on during the competition. We hear nothing of the judges’ deliberations. We just see sweat and strain and toil and then the top three winners are announced and a lot of flag waving and anthem playing ensues. It’s mysterious and magical.

Of all the chefs this season, I think Bryan would be the most likely to succeed in a Bocuse d’Or type competition. But Kevin is the one that got a shot. He’ll need a lot of coaching and probably some divine intervention to do well, but he could pull it out just like he has so many challenges this season.