I just spent the most enjoyable hour with Bobby and Ina.
They were doing a test run of all the recipes they were serving for
Thanksgiving. I won’t do my usual blow by blow of every knife stroke, because
there were a lot of dishes, but I will go through them. Let’s see what sounds
good.
If you’re like me, every year you look through tons of
Thanksgiving recipes to see if there’s anything you want to add to your menu. (And
it IS usually adding to and never subtracting from.) I know instantly if I’m
not interested in a given recipe. Since I always stuff my turkey, I set aside
most turkey recipes. Nobody wants the hassle of stuffing the bird anymore (I
do!) and brining is the most popular thing going. I’ve never been convinced
that you can stuff a brined turkey without the stuffing being way too salty, so
most recipes are nonstarters. Bobby shows Ina (and us) how to SMOKE a turkey. I
love him, I love Ina’s outdoor area, but I’m not going to do that, so let’s
move on.
Ina wants to give Bobby a taste of her Apple Bread Pudding,
which she’ll make instead of stuffing this year. Oh my, this looks like a
winning dish AND it can be made the day before. She sautés pancetta in butter
with onions, celery and one Granny Smith apple. Then Ina adds sherry, fresh
rosemary, salt, pepper and parsley. Separately, Ina puts together a custard
with 5 EXTRA LARGE eggs (here
we go again!)*, chicken stock,
cream and Gruyere. To be honest, I’d be
tempted to leave out the cheese. If this is a stuffing substitute, I think
adding cheese is weird.
Ina toasts bread cubes at 350°F for 20 minutes and, of course,
don’t forget to use “good bread”. She adds the sautéed vegetables with all
their juices to the custard and bread. The mixture goes into a rectangular baking
dish and Ina adds a bit of Gruyere on top. Then it’s refrigerated overnight. She doesn’t mention that an important
calculation you have to make is the oven space you have available. You need 45
minutes at 350°F. I’m thinking I can do it after the turkey comes out. Ina
tests it with a knife. If it comes out clean, the custard is done.
Bobby is back with the turkey. (By the way, that thing takes
HOURS to cook.) Okay, cool…not doing it. He comes in to taste the bread
pudding. Bobby gives Ina a big “Wow!” He loves the crustiness on top and says
it’s “Absolutely superb”. They exclaim that it will make it onto the
(imaginary) buffet that they’re serving (together) on Thanksgiving.
Ina says they both
agree that they never have a first course on Thanksgiving. Yeah, I get the
concept, but I would NEVER do that. The
idea of diving into the full meal without a little pre-eating does not appeal
to me. I don’t follow the super-light appetizer rule either.
This is my Superbowl of cooking. Go big or go home! We also
learn that Ina loves to serve Thanksgiving as a buffet because she hates the
idea of all those bowls all over the table. HUH?!! Isn’t that the point? This
is Amurica and shouldn’t Thanksgiving dinner be served family style (if you
have the room)?!!
Their next dish would make a great first course, even though
I usually go with soup. Bobby is making a Heartland Salad. They get busy stripping the kale off its woody stems. I’m not doing
that. I would buy baby spinach, baby kale and maybe a bit of baby arugula.
I do not need another vegetable to prep.
Bobby chops an Asian
pear and says you can also use a regular pear or even an apple. (I usually go
with Bosc pears for salads. I like Mark
Bittman’s rule,
which is when the “shoulders are soft”,
they’re ripe.) Ina gets to work (and it IS work) chopping the kale.
Bobby has soaked the
dried cranberries a bit to plump them up and overcooked the wild rice, which is
softer and absorbs the dressing more. He says when wild rice is cooked the
regular way, it’s kind of “pine needle-y”. He’s so right! I think I may always
overcook wild rice from now on!
Bobby throws the dressing ingredients into a bowl,
acknowledging that Ina likes to measure. Ina is pretty sure that his rough
measurements are pretty exact. He’s using white wine vinegar, Dijon, a splash
of honey, a tiny bit of pomegranate molasses (yum), and salt and pepper. That’s
all whisked with olive oil. He and Ina are on the same page with their
vinaigrettes. They like them heavily acidic with two parts of oil to one part
vinegar or lemon juice, instead of the classic three parts of oil to one part acid.
You may never hear me say this again,
but I don’t have an opinion about this. I figure it out based on what I’m
making. If the salad needs more tang, I’d go with the 2 to 1 rule. If not, I
might stick to 3 to 1.
Bobby gathers all the salad ingredients and says, “Everybody
is going to go into the pool.” Ina likes
that. Kale, baby spinach, pears and cranberries, walnuts, salt and pepper…it
all goes in. Ina giggles. Bobby’s trick with the dressing is to spoon it around
the (inside) perimeter of the bowl so that he doesn’t overdress the salad. He
tosses it all together and then Ina remembers the rice! He adds it and has to
add more dressing. So much for his
lightly dressed salad. He plates it and it looks gorgeous. If I were
serving this as a side dish (and with that Apple Bread Pudding too), I might
leave out the wild rice.
They go on to Bobby’s 15 layer potato gratin. It turns out
the name could be an exaggeration. He calls the actual recipe ELEVEN layer. It depends
on how big your dish is and how many layers you put in. He and Ina layer thinly
mandolined Idaho potatoes with salt, pepper and cream. That’s it. They remind
us not to rinse them after peeling, because you want the starch. And Bobby explains,
“Eventually we want the cream to become part of the potatoes and reduce.” The
exciting part is what he puts on top - shallots in butter with a pinch of sugar,
cooked until caramelized. AND he’ll add fried sage.
Bobby goes out to baste his gorgeously brown turkey while
Ina makes orange and honey carrots. She cooks carrots, covered, in water,
butter and minced ginger for 5 minutes. Then she uncovers them and cooks them
until the water evaporates. They simmer for another 5 minutes with orange juice
and zest. She seasons them and they can be done the day before. Ina heats them
up in an olive oil coated pan, while Bobby plays with his turkey some more.
Bobby tells us he
could pinch himself – He’s at Ina Garten’s house “doing Thanksgiving practice! Wouldn’t
you wanna be here?” YES!!! I would! And I kinda feel like I am. That’s how
effortless these two pros are at letting us in the kitchen with them, watching
and learning their tricks and turns.
Standing over the carrots, Ina and Bobby agree that reheated
food has to be seasoned again before serving. Bobby says the food seems to go
through a “flavor filter”, where the refrigeration blunts the seasoning. Hmmm,
I have to think about that. He also says you also have to rehydrate and he
guesses (correctly) that Ina added a bit of olive oil to loosen things up. Bobby
tastes the carrots after Ina (re)seasons them. He approves and laughs as he
tastes them, “So good.” And he jokes with her saying, “Can you imagine (me saying),
You know what, Ina? I don’t think the carrots are gonna make Thanksgiving.”
Harhar. As if. He continues, “The entire country of America would hate me.” Ina
laughs heartily. Love her.
While Bobby bastes the turkey again. Ina moves on to a Brussels
sprout dish. She shreds them in a food processor and sautés them in butter and
olive oil. Ina says this is so much easier than roasting AND it frees up the
oven. She drizzles over balsamic vinegar. I like that, but I don’t like the
muddy color it gives the dish. I would definitely use a white balsamic vinegar,
even a lemon one, if you can find it.
Bobby tests his
turkey. He says the key number to remember is 160°F. But he says 155°F. is actually
okay for the breast and the thigh should be 160°F. Whoa, Nelly! Food safety
experts would NOT agree with that.
The USDA says the breast, thigh AND stuffing should all
measure 165°F. Butterball goes a little overboard and recommends 180°F. for the
thigh and 165°F. for the breast.
Bobby takes his
turkey’s temperature. The breast is 157°F. and the thigh is 162°F. I usually
split the difference and do 160°F. for the breast, but I make sure the thigh
and stuffing are 165°F. And always put the thermometer in the thickest part
of the breast and the thickest part of the thigh, not touching the bone.
Obviously, this whole issue is why people spatchcock
their turkeys. That’s fine, but I like the challenge of cooking a big bird,
whole, stuffed and intact.
Finally Bobby brings in the turkey. Ina says it looks amazing.
While it rests, they test the sprouts. Bobby loves the balsamic vinegar
addition and remarks that the two of them cook so much alike. She laughs and
says she’d LIKE to cook like him.
For the Potato Gratin
garnish, they fry the sage in canola (ICK!) oil. The amount of oil Ina and
Bobby use shows they’re definitely not paying for their own oil. Ina acts like
she’s never done this and asks how long they cook. “30 seconds, Missy,” Bobby
says! (He didn’t really say that, but he could have, since they’re so cute
together.) Bobby salts the sage leaves straight out of the pan. He tops the
cooked potato gratin with the beautiful shallots and then the sage. Ina is in heaven
and decrees that this dish will definitely be on the table. (Instead of the
Gruyere, the shallot and sage situation would be a good thing to top the bread
pudding with.)
Bobby carves the turkey. He separates the legs and cuts off
the thigh. Like Ina, he carves each breast off in one big piece and then cuts
it sideways. Ina says her father could carve a turkey beautifully, but he was a
surgeon. They taste the turkey. She says it’s actually the moistest turkey she’s
ever had.
Ina shows us how she simply, but elegantly, set the table.
Ina tells us how she made her cranberries. They’re okay, but
look at this
recipe. It’s my cranberry staple and soooooo good.
Lastly, Bobby shows Ina how to make his Autumn Sangria. He
starts by teaching her how to bash the outside of a pomegranate to get the
seeds out. Ina’s pretending this is all new to her. I guess if Bobby Flay were
in MY kitchen showing me, I would let him too.
Bobby says this is another “everyone in the pool” recipe. He
soaks the fruit in all the liquor and wine for quite a long time. I worry that the fruit could become somewhat
flabby if left too long. He adds pear brandy to the fruit in the pitcher. Great
idea! Then Calvados. Even better! (Ina has to open the bottle for Bobby. Funny.)
And then red wine and apple cider go in. WOWEE! He adds cinnamon simple syrup,
which is just simple syrup made with cinnamon sticks. The pomegranate seeds go
in at the end.
Bobby pours them a taste. Ina exclaims, “Oh, we’re getting whole
glasses! Let’s get serious! We’re done testing. We can now drink!” Bobby even
tells us HOW to pour the sangria. Spoon some fruit in the bottom of the glass
and then pour in the sangria, holding back the other fruit with a wooden spoon.
Ina is enchanted with everything. They toast to the best Thanksgiving ever.
I love Ina and Bobby together. I love their happy
enthusiasm. They make a perfectly charming pair and their chemistry is undeniable.
FYI, The Food Network is repeating this show on Saturday morning (November 21)
at 9 am, 11/23 at 4 pm and, cutting it a little close, Wednesday 11/25 at 1pm.
I hope all your holiday dinner preparations go as swimmingly
as theirs did. And, after all the chopping is done, I’m sure Ina would approve
of a cocktail or two.
* If the recipe says 5 extra-large eggs, use 6 large.
4 comments:
Hmmmm...It's 8:15 on a Saturday morning. I could go watch this at 9. I am intrigued, but since I'm not making Thanksgiving dinner (going out once again), I don't have much need to watch cooking shows. If I were making Thanksgiving dinner, I think I would know what I was making by now and wouldn't need more recipes. These Thanksgiving shows need to start back in October. I am kind of surprised FN still keeps these guys on the air. They are so much more invested in contests and promoting their handpicked "talent".
I must be more like Ina Garten than I think I am. I don't have quite such a nice kitchen (or the means to decorate a table like that), but I was considering doing a bread pudding for Christmas dinner. Mine would be pear instead of apple and have brie instead of Gruyere. However, it just seemed to heavy to be a side dish, so I'm doing something with the cheese and the fruit as a pre-dinner nibble instead of as a side dish. I won't spill all my secrets yet though.
How about recording it and watching it while you're quilting or cleaning the grout around the kitchen sink? It's just after nine, so you'll just miss the tutorial on smoking the turkey (that no one cares about). ;-)
Your bread pudding sounds awesome! And as I said, I agree with you that it sounds heavy as a Thanksgiving dish. I may ask you for that pre-dinner idea. You can't have too many ideas floating around...
Sue, you and I would worry about oven space. But Ina? She probably has another dozen or so out in the "barn," don't you think? And the into the pool comment, did Bobby steal that from Rachael Ray or vice-versa? She used to say that a lot.
Of course you're right about the oven space, Tom. And I had NO idea that that was possibly an RR remark. I really liked it too.
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