Pioneer Woman with Ree Drummond
There were lots of repeats on the Food Network this weekend and I had no intention of watching Pioneer Woman. But what could I do when there was so much to say
after I watched it for just a minute?
It was daughter Alex’s 15 birthday and “after a morning of
ranch work with the family”, Ree was making her Great Granny’s prune cake for
the birthday. Interesting choice. I do love prunes with chicken so why not in a
cake? But for a 15 year old?
The kids and dad are working hard “shipping cattle”. Let’s
not think too hard about that. Maybe they’re being shipped from one bucolic
field to another. And, after all, if we’re going to eat meat, we shouldn’t look
away from how it gets to our plates. (Although, of course, we can support
healthier more humane ways of that happening…if there is such a thing.)
But hold on for a sec. Let’s
consider this ranch scene for a moment. One of my favorite games is putting
Ina in imaginary settings where she would be ever so out of place.
And what would Ree do if she found herself at Ina’s? Would she wander around the
Contessa’s spread, thinking how many cattle could live out in back forty? She’d probably
gaze at Ina’s pantry with the longing of someone who has to drive 45 minutes to
buy a bottle of vanilla.
Anyhoo, back to earth. I don’t want to be difficult, but just
in the initial few seconds of Ree’s first recipe, she’s given me plenty of
things to harangue her for comment on.
PW is taking her
flour from a bag with the edges folded down. That’s a smart way to
avoid catching the cup of the rim of the bag, but it’s a dumb way to store
flour. Get yourself a large plastic container or wide-mouthed jar that can
hold a bag of flour. Do the same with the sugar. You’ll save the equivalent of
4000 woman or man hours over the course of your life by not having to fiddle
around with a measuring cup in a bag of flour - edges folded down or not. (I
admit that time estimate may be just a bit off…depending on how much baking you
do.)
Next problem. Ree
adds a teaspoon of nutmeg to the cake batter. It looks like she’s gotten it
from a bottle. It could never taste as fresh as newly ground. There’s no
reason not to have a few nutmeg berries (they're actually called "seeds") in the cupboard. They honestly last FOREVER.
Really. Plus most recipes don’t call for that much, so it’s a cinch to grate a
small amount. Unless you’re making eggnog in bathtub-sized batches, grate fresh
nutmeg every time you use it.
Ree does take the time to sift her flour, spices and leavening.
Honestly, I mostly just stir them up (if they’re lucky), but I also don’t
compress my flour as I take it from the container.
For the wet ingredients, Ree mixes sugar (it’s not a wet
ingredient, but never mind. I’m just happy she’s taken it from a big jar…Yay!) with
3 eggs, a big teaspoon of vanilla and a cup of canola oil. WHY doesn’t she use
safflower oil? You know have I thing
about canola oil, plus I despise its taste. (You could also substitute some applesauce for the oil, if you wanted to lighten it up.) She mixes the batter with a little
whisk. I would definitely use a fork.
BTW, if you always keep the fork in contact with the bottom of the bowl
as you’re beating, it will NEVER splash over the sides.
The wet ingredients get mixed into the dry ones and then Ree stirs
in a cup of buttermilk and adds the prunes. She readied the prunes by
cooking them in water until soft for about 8 minutes and then draining and
mashing them. Frankly, wouldn’t even
chopped up prunes be good?
The batter goes into a well-buttered 9 by 13 glass dish. For
some reason, Ree feels she has to justify the size of dish she’s using. She
says others have made the cake too thick or too thin and this one will work just
fine. Hmm. We’ll see about that. It does look kind of flat before baking. Maybe she
SHOULD have used a different pan. It bakes at 300°F. for 35 to 40 minutes.
That’s low. Definitely make sure your
oven is preheated if you’re using such a low temperature. Ree says.
“Grandma Iny was adamant. Do NOT overbake this cake,” (which would be hard at
that low a heat anyway…)
I HATE baking stuff at
300°, except meringues, which might be baked even lower. I find that cakes and
brownies take FOREVER and they never really cook in the middle.
Ree moves on to Iny’s icing. She stirs together a cup of
sugar and a cup of buttermilk in a medium saucepan. Then she adds butter,
baking soda and just a bit of corn syrup and vanilla. I don’t approve of adding the vanilla at this point. Add it after the
sauce or icing has come off the stove.
Ree says to use a candy thermometer to check the temperature
because she doesn’t want it to go as far as the caramel stage. She “stops the
cooking process before it gets to the soft ball stage”. She doesn’t tell us
what temperature that is, but I will. 235°F. is the beginning of the soft ball
stage, so take the sugar mixture off the heat right then or JUST below that. Remember it keeps cooking after it’s removed from the heat.
The icing looks really foamy, which is from the baking soda.
That will make a softer mixture which will be easier to pour.
Ree takes the cake out of the oven. It does look really
thin. The kids and dad come home. Ree says to pour the icing over the cake right
when it comes out of the oven. (The only reason I can see to have a cake that
thin, is that there’s more real estate to benefit from that yummy icing.)
Ree puts one candle in and lets Alex blow out the candle. She
cuts the birthday girl a piece of cake and serves it on a pretty yellow plate.
No garnish? Not even a berry or two? Eh!
I used to give my kids a beautiful breakfast in bed for their birthdays. (Don’t be that
impressed. I made THEM do the same for me.)
Next we see Alex with her friends opening birthday presents.
She IS a sweet girl and I like how she says she loves everything with lots of
thank-you’s. That’s good training and it DOES take a lot of that. (Before my
kids’ birthday parties, I used to practice situations of what to do if the birthday
kid hated something or if he or she got duplicates. So we had a secret signal
and whenever I put anything on top of the mantel - so it would stay pristine and
unopened - that was their sign that we’d exchange it for something else AFTER
the party. BUT they had to be gracious in that moment.)
There are a few other things that I appreciated that Ree DID
do. She proofed her yeast before mixing up her focaccia dough. Actually, it was
good that she MADE focaccia dough in the first place. I do wish, though, that she had thrown some whole wheat flour in there.
Oh, I spoke too fast. She’s losing me again. After the dough
is mixed and risen, she says, “I LOVE sticky dough.” NOW we know she’s a poser.
Sticky dough is necessary sometimes, but does anybody really LOVE it? It’s a
big pain.
Ree kneads half the dough with fresh chopped rosemary. (The
other half is being put away for another time.) She drizzles olive oil on a
baking sheet and put the dough on top. She drizzles over a bit more olive oil,
covers it and lets it rise for another hour.
I also like that she’s making a real ranch dressing with
lots of fresh herbs.
She chops chives, parsley,
basil and oregano. C’mon Pioneer Woman
disparagers, THIS is a perfectly good recipe. No tricks or flourishes, probably
just like your grandmother made (if she had ever heard of ranch dressing.)
Actually, it may be a little gloppy. Mayo, sour cream and
buttermilk with herbs, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Now I can’t decide what I think. Is it garbage or homemade goodness? (…which
I know can be the same thing.) Basically, they’re eating white bread (with
rosemary and lots of olive oil) with a salad doused in mayonnaise. Maybe that
isn’t so great.
Well, these kids get an amazing amount of exercise, so I
guess they can have any salad dressing they want.
Ree finishes the focaccia by putting fingerprints all over
the top, adding more olive oil plus salt. She bakes it at 400°F. for 30 to 40 minutes.
Ree is making chopped salad because she and Alex had it in
New York where it was chopped up tableside. So PW is pulling together lots of
ingredients for the girls to have what they want. The girls pick their fixin's and PW chops them up with two knives on a big cutting board and then dresses
the salad with the ranch dressing. Not a bad idea, but the only protein is hard boiled
eggs. And there are so many other healthy things she could have added -shredded
red cabbage, snow peas, edamame. And, seriously, why couldn’t she have added
some seared chicken breasts and/or grilled shrimp? AND where is the bacon???
Maybe Alex doesn’t eat meat? Good luck to her on the ranch.
Dessert is weird…for 15 year olds. Ree serves up pound cake
in flower pots with chopped up Oreos as dirt. Remember the dessert that
Friday’s (I think) used to have (maybe still does?) on their kid’s menu? It was
called Cup O’ Dirt and it had gummy worms and chopped up Oreos over pudding.
Ree starts with a clay flower pot (she didn’t even say it should be clean
OR new…ew) She puts some disks of bought pound cake on the bottom that she had
cut out with a cookie cutter.
Next Ree sticks a straw the height of the flower pot into
the middle of the cake. She spoons in softened ice cream right up to the top of
the pot and freezes them. Just before serving, Ree puts gummy worms on the top and
covers them up with ground-up Oreos. A very pretty Gerber daisy gets stuck into each
straw as a final flourish, and, voila, a dessert fit for…an eight year old.
But you know what? I’m not going to give her a hard time, because what mother doesn’t want to keep her kid young forever? For all I know, my son is still eating Cups O’ Dirt, but he probably wouldn’t want it publicized all over the place. So let’s pretend for Alex’s sake that dessert was a bit less jejune.
9 comments:
I think PW would be quite at home at Ina's. The country girl thing is just a made up persona. She grew up in a wealthy suburb on a golf course,took ballet lessons, vacationed at the Jersey Shore in the summer, and made frequent theater trips to NY (this is all in her blogs and books). I think she would be happy for a day with no cows.
Prune cake? Yuck! I'd protest till the cows came home if that were my birthday cake. I recognize it and the flowerpot thing from the days when I used to read her blog. She's bringing up some blasts from the past. Maybe that's why she is serving kids' food to a teen. She just needs an excuse to bring up those recipes?
You're right, Rach,
I don't know why, but I just decide to suspend disbelief and comment only on (mostly on) what PW does in the kitchen. There's enough to go around in that category.
Interesting about her recycled recipes... But if folks were pilloried for that, I'd have been brought into custody ages ago for rehashing Chicken Marbella and Ina's Orzo with Roasted Vegetables more times than I can count (including last weekend).
The prune cake (THAT prune cake) was kind of an odd choice. There are so many other things one could make for a festive breakfast. Being served a flat brown piece of cake with prunes just doesn't say PARTAY to me.
I can't believe I'm saying this, but I have to give PW a pass! First on the wet ingredients bit, since I have seen sugar listed as a wet ingredient in baking books. And maybe the prune cake is a family thing that they all like for sentimental reasons. (Of course, this being PW it would be uncharacteristically reserved of her not to say so a dozen times.) The flower pot thing is awful, though.
Hey Tom,
I hear you about the sugar.
And I don't have a problem in principle with a prune cake. I have a problem with Ree giving her darling daughter this sad looking old lady cake for her birthday breakfast. She could have jazzed it up somewhat, couldn't she?
As always, my own kitchen techniques are improved quite a bit when I read your critiques of how a supposed food celebrity superstar gets sloppy in the kitchen. Keep up the great work!
James,
You are too kind. I think many folks pick up Ree's "eccentricities" in the kitchen. Maybe they're just too nice to comment on them. Having said that, I do try to limit my remarks to her cooking (mostly).
How fun would a flower dirt pot dessert be for my son's 3rd birthday party?
Ummm, Sheila,
Perhaps think twice about that. Don't you think a 3 year old's instinct will be to turn the flower pot upside down and have all the "dirt" go everywhere?
I still remember what a bad idea it was to have do-it-yourself sundaes and I think my son was A LOT older, like 6 or 7. I had different sauces, gummy worms, m&m's, sprinkles, and whatever else you can think of. The little monsters, I mean kids, put EVERYTHING in their ice cream, stirred it up to be like soup and then thought it looked so gross that they didn't want to eat it. Oy! Maybe the flower pot IS a better idea. But frankly, I don't think they make flower pots to be food-safe, so be careful.
AND have a great time! Little kids are the greatest, even if they don't know how to eat ice cream.
I like Alex’s 15th birthday party theme. Food is very important to increase excitement of Birthday parties
but I would prefer frozen items like: ice-cream, fruit salad etc.
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