H and I were on
our way to the Library of Congress. We
were walking past the Russell Senate Office Building and suddenly I see a
perfectly coiffed, hair-sprayed head attached to someone wearing a blindingly
white shirt. It turned out to be Trent Lott! For the moment, I forgot that
he wasn’t in the Senate anymore (after resigning his Senate Minority
Leader post after that Strom
Thurmond brouhaha and then leaving the Senate 5 years later). All I could concentrate
on was the hair and bright white shirt. Very striking.
As I was trying to make the split decision whether to stick
out my hand and greet Trent or just walk by, he crossed in front of me and
walked into the street to greet another Senator – one who is (unfortunately)
still serving. I recognized Jeff
Sessions from all his appearances on
CNN. (Of course, he’s probably made more on Fox, but I wouldn’t know about
that.) HE also looked very well put
together. He had on a dark, very conservative suit – the kind you would want
your undertaker to be wearing.
Trent said something like, “So do we have a plan?” and then
they were just far enough away that I couldn’t hear every word. H, meanwhile, was astounded that I was
star-struck by these right wing types and walked on ahead, so I just got these
two pictures, which I admit look a bit like unsavory characters meeting behind
a warehouse.
In retrospect, I regret that I didn’t even say, “What the heck are
you two doing to our country?”, but H was grateful
he didn’t have to bail me out.
The Library
of Congress is a fascinating place. It was our first visit, although we
remembered the scene from All
the President’s Men that takes place in the main reading room.
It was interesting to learn about its place in literary (and
American) history. Established in 1800 by an act of Congress and located in the
Capital, it was burned down by the invading British in 1814. Former President
Thomas Jefferson offered his library as a replacement, which was more extensive
than the one it replaced. That worked out well until 1851, when another fire
destroyed two thirds of the library’s collection, including two thirds of the Jefferson
Library. Over the years, the Jefferson books have all been replaced with duplicates and now over
140 million books and items exist in its collections.
The building itself is breathtaking and the inside looks
like an Italian Renaissance palace. On your next trip to DC, try to find time to go on the hour tour of the Thomas Jefferson building (the main building of the Library of
Congress).
I noted several food and drink (especially drink) connections in the decorations.
We made a short stop to The National Gallery of Art’s East
Wing and this weird thing happened. I took a picture of Roy Lichtenstein’s Still Life with Glass
and Peeled Lemon before finding out
that special exhibits are a no-no for photographing. The picture actually
disappeared from my camera. Seriously, I saw it in my camera (I thought I did
anyway) and then when I was downloading the pictures, it was gone. Freaky.
I did have an excellent latte in the café of the West Wing
of the museum. I liked sipping it and gazing at the bird painting on the
pillar.
Lunch was at Clyde’s. Nice food and very comfortable in a men’s club type of way with lots of wood paneling and leather booths.
The only problem was the magician that traveled from table to table and basically moved into our booth.
The real trick was getting him to disappear in time to make the next tour at the nearby International Spy Museum. This is a fun place to visit, especially if you’re rendezvousing with friends with kids, like we were. The museums on the Mall are free, so it IS a bit of a jolt to have to pay for some museum visits – like this one or the Newseum, for instance. The Newseum is one of my favorites.
Later on (not that much later, though), we had a great
dinner at Art and Soul, which is Art
Smith’s restaurant (of Oprah fame). It will be closing soon for a remodel,
which I don’t think is a bad idea. I loved the food, but the décor was a bit
motor-lodge-y. It is in a hotel, but I hope they develop a different look for
it.
The next day we toured around DC, and we also had two more
great meals. We made a quick stop for lunch at the terrific Tortilla Coast.
They shout “Homemade Tortillas” from the signs AND the mechanized tortilla
maker is on display.
I had Arturo’s Special Enchilada.
It was filled with chicken, topped with lots of vegetables and pineapple(!) and accompanied by beautifully made black beans and wonderful rice…what could be wrong with that? H’s BBQ Burrito was good too, although the BBQ sauce did not necessarily taste homemade.
Oh, and the chips! They took their FRESH tortillas, cut them up, fried them and immediately brought to our table. I didn’t ask anyone that. That’s just how they tasted. Fantastic.
But I would go back to Jaleo in a flash, to DC too. There is so much
to see and learn…and eat.
We started with some great dishes. S(on) was with us and he can always be counted on to order a tasty
meal. His Scotch egg was wonderful and the light salad it sat on
was the perfect foil to the richness of the sausage and egg. It was beautifully
cooked with a luscious runny yolk. I loved my Salmon Hoecake, which reminded me
of the Salmon Rillettes I had made on
Thanksgiving. This salmon mixture was served on an oval shaped cornmeal pancake. The huge caper berries were a good tangy garnish.
Scotch Eggs |
Salmon Hoecake |
As good as my Pekin duck was (not to be
confused with Peking Duck), the
dirty rice it was sitting on was even better. It was duck flavored and richly
seasoned and it rivaled my usual favorite of Forbidden rice with duck.
Pekin Duck Roasted Breast, Duck Dirty Rice, Roasted Turnips, Turnip Greens, Madeira Jus |
The two guys ordered the fried chicken for two.
This picture in no way does the chicken justice. It was
really crispy, just-fried, hardly greasy and really flavorful and tender. The
chicken definitely benefited from the buttermilk brining. Sorry that the greens
didn’t do it for us Northerners, but the mashed potatoes were excellent.
Even the small portion of the Art and Soul Baby Cakes was a
bit much after that dinner. (I’m just
saying…That didn’t actually stop us from finishing them…) My least favorite flavor usually is Red Velvet (either have chocolate
or don’t), but this was actually the best cupcake flavor on the plate. It was SO
moist with a fantastic cream cheese icing.
Art and Soul's Baby Cakes |
Maybe paisanos from the Southwest or
Mexico would disagree, but I have never had fresher, tenderer HOMEMADE
tortillas. Really good.
Plus it was a pretty interesting place. There were all these
pudgy, middle-aged white guys there with pretty young female staffers(?), all
glad-handing each other…the men, that is. I imagined they were Congressman from
Podunkville. I’m guessing that lobbyists (or senators) would be better dressed
and in better shape. ANYWAY, my sangria was refreshing and my enchilada was sooo
good.
I had Arturo’s Special Enchilada.
It was filled with chicken, topped with lots of vegetables and pineapple(!) and accompanied by beautifully made black beans and wonderful rice…what could be wrong with that? H’s BBQ Burrito was good too, although the BBQ sauce did not necessarily taste homemade.
Oh, and the chips! They took their FRESH tortillas, cut them up, fried them and immediately brought to our table. I didn’t ask anyone that. That’s just how they tasted. Fantastic.
Our last meal was the best of our trip. It was at José Andrés’ (not to be confused with Jose Garces) Jaleo, a tapas and small plate restaurant. It
was superb. I may be biased, of course, because Spanish food, and tapas
in particular, always brings me back to a place I love. But the dishes at
Jaleo are authentic and authentically delicious.
There ARE two problems at Jaleo, though. The first problem is that menu is so full of familiar (and much loved) dishes
that it's hard not to order each and every thing. The other
problem? Jaleo is pricey, really pricey.
The menu is made up of wonderful little dishes…with big
prices – a cute container of 5 stuffed-on-the-premises olives is $7. (They ARE
pretty big olives, though). They are the deluxe version of the wonderful anchovy-stuffed olives
that are put on every table in a Madrilèno café. Everything we had was equally exceptional.
House-made Stuffed Olives with Anchovies and Roasted Piquillo Peppers |
The creamy chicken-filled croquetas were as good as any I’ve
ever had. They were served in a glass soccer shoe with real red laces. Why?
Because the chef LOVES soccer.
The chorizo wasn’t presented in the usual way of
thick slices which are fried until crispy, but instead in little weiner shapes
(sorry for the language), wrapped with thin, fried potato slices secured with a
toothpick. Definitely not muy tipico, but definitely highly delicious.
The gambas were garlicky and sweet - just perfect. But the
mingy amount of bread that was served with them was laughable. Look at the amount of yummy juices in the
bottom of the bowl. Even before it hit the table, I asked for more bread,
which was no problem…but should I have had to ask? No!
Spicy Chorizo wrapped in Patata Frita
|
Gambas Al Ajillo |
I’m can’t believe I’m
going to say this, because it is a specialty of the place, but the paellas are
REALLY expensive (for the size of the serving), so I would recommend that you
skip them. I know that may be sacrilege, but really $40 or $45 – or up to
$55(!!!) for the lobster one - (there are also vegetable varieties in the high
30’s) is kind of a lot.
We had the special of the night - an arroz dish with large
shrimp for $40. It WAS good, but it was served in a REALLY shallow dish, which
probably had 5 or 6 reasonable spoonfuls in it. (The picture makes it look deceptively big. It was about two grains of rice deep.)
I have no problem spending
money on food if I’ve planned for it and I think it’s worth it. But it’s
probably better to go to a real paella place, where you’ll get great paella and
better value. Here, EVERYTHING is expensive, but you won’t find croquetas like
these in many places and the olives are a real window into an authentic Spanish
tapa.
Arroz a Banda |
The desserts were interesting. The Arroz con leche was a
fascinating and over the top delicious version of Spanish rice pudding. It had
the usual rice pudding, but then the chef added not PUFFED rice, which it kind
of tasted like, but “crispy caramelized rice”. Oh my! It added a tiny crunch to
each bite with a wonderful toasted flavor. It was remarkable.
Arroz Con Leche Tia Chita |
The flan was the one thing I wasn't a fan of. I do love croquetas. I love
anchovy-stuffed olives, but FLAN! FLAN, I adore. This was the recipe of Jose
Andres’ mother. Now far be it from me to EVER criticize a mother’s beloved and passed-down-from-the-ages,
special version of a dish, but…it just wasn’t sweet enough. It was beautifully
made and unmolded and garnished, but the flan itself fell a bit flat in flavor.
Just another (big) spoonful of sugar might have done the trick.
Flan Al Estilo Tradicional De Mamá Marisa (Sorry Mama!) |
OH! One more amazing famous person sighting!!! Okay, I was really cagey...I was pretending to be on my phone, but I tilted it and got this picture.
LOOK who I saw in a DC Starbucks!@#!$@^!!! I know you know!
YUP!!! That IS Brian Lamb!!! From C-Span (until he stepped down), remember??? C'mon, I know you do. It was pretty heady stuff seeing all these movers and shakers...
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