Le Bistrot de Marius

No Empty Chairs At Empty Tables Here

H was working late (I’d had a hard day too) and so we didn’t set off for dinner with a colleague of his until late, about 9:30. We wandered around the neighborhood (Alma Marceau) and after too long a wait at one place, we strolled into the Bistrot de Marius (6, av George V, Paris, 75008).

We got the last table right by the drafty door. But they brought a giant wall-sized chalkboard with the day’s menu and placed it squarely in front of the table, so it blocked out the cold night air.

I started with the Soupe de Poisson, which was wonderful, although it was way too large a serving.

Afterwards, I read elsewhere that it contained the pounded shells of lobster and I assume from the full-bodied flavor that that was true. The best part were the little bits and pieces that came with it: Rouille, which I absolutely love and I admit I haven’t had or served for probably 15 years; grated cheese and wonderful croûtes.

H had the oysters served as per usual with a vinegar sauce and good thin slices of brown bread. S, his business associate, started with the Petites Fritures d’Eperlans (little fried smelts) served with a tartar sauce.

I didn’t do my usual reaching over and tasting from everyone’s plate, but we were all very satisfied.

H and S had the Daurade grise de ligne en croûte de sel (sea bream cooked in a crust of salt). I first encountered this dish 20 years ago in Madrid at a restaurant named appropriately enough, La Dorada.

Marius didn’t have quite the same magnificent presentation as La Dorada, where they bring out the entire fish and then take it away and filet it. Here they skin it and leave a bit of salt around and you have to perform the filleting yourself (not a difficult enterprise).

I had one of the specials - Grilled Salmon. The skin was crispy and charred with perfect crosshatching and the fish was nicely moist.

We had one crème brûlée between us. It was good and just enough.

We had a casual comfortable evening, with impeccably fresh seafood. Le Bistrot de Marius’ sister restaurant, Marius Et Janette is just next door and much higher priced. This one was just fine.