Friday, March 18, 2016

Spending Time With Bulgogi and Gochujang

I didn’t completely want to, but the other night I made my own Bulgogi and Gochujang Paste, because I was making Bibimbap. The gochujang was actually on purpose, but the bulgogi was because Trader Joe's parking lot was so crowded I thought a rave was happening inside. I wasn’t that wrong. When I looked in the door, there was a horde of frantic shoppers snapping up lots of brightly packaged snack foods and six packs of wine and boxes of beer. (Sorry, that should be the other way around.) Anyway, I turned right around and went to my usual supermarket and bought unseasoned beef.

Let’s define some terms here. Gochujang is that Korean Chili Paste, which is becoming the new Sriracha. It’s everywhere. In my quest to use up my white miso, I decided to make gochujang instead of buying it. Bulgogi is marinated beef strips often served in Bibimbap, which is a Korean rice dish topped with vegetables (and beef too, if you like). And it’s served with gochujang. I’ll talk about the Bibimbap in my next post.

For the Bulgogi, I intended to leave out the sugar or honey, but I chickened out. It does have a sweet component that I decided I would miss. But instead of just SERVING the bulgogi with gochujang paste, I decided to add some into the meat marinade, because...why not?

Bulgogi can be served simply with plain rice or fried rice or rice noodles...if you’re not doing a whole Bibimbap thing. Here’s the recipe to get you started.

Bulgogi
¼ cup soy sauce
2 cloves garlic
2 tbls. sesame oil
1 tbl. finely chopped or grated ginger
1 tbl. toasted sesame seeds
2 tsps. honey
2 scallions, chopped
2 tsps. gochujang paste (Recipe below or use the fabulous stuff from a jar)
1½ lbs sirloin, sliced into thin strips (or buy it in strips)

Whisk together all the ingredients, except meat, in a large glass bowl. Add the beef and turn to coat. Cover and marinate in fridge for at least 1 hour or overnight. 


Oil a stove top grill pan or spray a nonstick pan with nonstick spray and place on medium heat. Remove beef from marinade and cook for 3 minutes on the first side or until nicely browned on the edges and 1 or 2 minutes on the other. Serve immediately or set aside to be added to the Bibimbap. 

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Your Korean grandmother would ferment her gochujang for weeks, months or longer(!). This is quickly made with a casual hanging out on the counter before you add the last ingredients. It has a hoisin sauce-like consistency. It’s SO good. I used this batch for the bulgogi and to serve with Bibimbap, but gochujang is good next to any Asian rice or meat (or chicken or anything) dish.

My Gochujang
Based on Homemade Gochujang

 

½ cup water
1¼ cups brown sugar
½ cup white miso
2 tbls. chili powder, from the supermarket (Korean chili powder will make the sauce hotter and much redder. Use it if you prefer.)
½ tsp. cayenne
½ tsp. chili pepper flakes
½ tsp. dry sherry
½ tsp. rice vinegar

Over medium heat, stir together the water and brown sugar until completely dissolved. Stir in the miso until the mixture is smooth. A fork will help to break down the miso.

Add chili powder, cayenne and chili flakes and stir over low heat for 3 minutes. The mixture should be simmering gently. Take it off the heat and put the uncovered pot on the counter until it cools to about 100°F, or slightly warm to the touch.

Stir in the sherry and rice vinegar and let cool completely. Pour into a jar, cover and refrigerate.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

I'll Be Miso-ing My Peanut Sauce From Now On

When I make peanut sauce, it’s usually from a recipe in an ancient 1989 Bon AppĆ©tit magazine.* Recently, however, another recipe caught my eye on Food52. It was made with white miso. And since I’ve had an open container of that in my fridge since Christmas (when I made Nobu’s Miso Cod), I was psyched. (And I’m not kidding about the word OPEN. When I dug it out of the back of the fridge, somehow the lid had disappeared and it was truly OPEN and uncovered! Luckily, miso is really hearty and it didn’t seem to matter a bit.) 

 

This miso peanut sauce turned out to be sensational, but I did change it a bit. I used more garlic and sesame oil...and black tea instead of water. BTW, I use so little peanut butter in my life that I decided a while ago to forego the natural stuff (which I always had to whirl up in the food processor). Now I just buy Jif in a tiny jar and I don’t have gobs of it hanging out in the fridge space pledged to other more important items. 

Miso Peanut Sauce

½ inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled
2 garlic cloves, peeled, with center stalk removed
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter (Use your favorite. I use Jif)
1 heaping tbl. white miso (also called Shiro Miso)
2 tbls. unflavored rice wine vinegar
3 squeezes Sriracha
1 tbl. honey (If your peanut butter is unsweetened, add a bit more)
2 tsps. sesame oil
1/2 cup of black tea - divided in half, freshly brewed and still warm

plus extra 2 tbls. black tea or water, if desired

Place ginger and garlic in food processor fitted with metal blade. Whirl until finely chopped. Add remaining ingredients, including the first 1/4 cup of black tea. Process until smooth. Add up to another 1/4 cup of black tea by spoonfuls to get the consistency you prefer. 

Set peanut sauce aside, covered, until ready to use. Refrigerate if not using in the next hour. Check consistency before using. Add extra black tea or water little by little, if the peanut sauce is too thick.

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This time I was using the peanut sauce on top of grilled flank steak. I also served it with brown rice, steamed broccoli and snow peas, plus halved and vinaigrette-dressed grape tomatoes.  


Other times, I like to toss rice noodles or just cooked spaghetti with peanut sauce and add lots of julienned vegetables – cucumbers, red pepper, carrots and a bit of red onion. I can serve that alone or with julienned leftover flank steak or chicken. 

Note: If you’re using any peanut sauce to coat uncooked chicken, meat or fish (or shrimp), make sure to set aside that amount separately. You don’t want the spoon that touched the raw chicken, for example, to go back in the peanut sauce that may go on top of your raw vegetables.  

*(Email me if you want the Bon AppĆ©tit Peanut Sauce recipe, since it’s not mine to post.)

Monday, February 29, 2016

I Did Something Weird To My Minestrone, Plus I Hope You’ll Never Make Meatloaf The Same Way Again


On the weekends, I like to have lots of leftovers for H and me to snack on. I had meatloaf in the fridge AND I had made a big pot of minestrone the day before. While I was heating up the soup, I got a hankering for a bit of meatloaf. Instead of having it separately, I just cubed it up and added it to my steaming cup of minestrone. No additional heating up was necessary. 

It was soooo delicious and it was such an excellent combination. It was very Italian Wedding Soup-like without all the greens…and with a lot more vegetables. All the bits and pieces that were in the meatloaf (see below) went together beautifully with the huge (but easily sourced) list of minestrone ingredients.
Here’s how to make both:

Years ago, my friend A drew my attention to the extraordinary meatloaf in the Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook. I can’t believe I had never noticed this recipe before. It wasn’t what was IN the meatloaf that intrigued me, but HOW it was shaped. It was patted out into a large rectangle, topped with sundried tomatoes, large leaves of basil and slices of smoked mozzarella. Then it was ROLLED UP like a jellyroll. And when you cut it, it had yummy swirls of pretty stuff in each slice. (The ends of the meatloaf look a little swirl-less in this picture, but the middle was quite attractive.)

Those spiral slices are really special, and any meatloaf would be enhanced with a layer of savory goodness in the middle. Lately I’ve been chopping things up from the olive bar - sundried tomatoes, baby (pitted) olives and those cute cubes of feta and using that as my filling.

In the meatloaf itself, I often use what I have handy or leftover – sometimes it’s brown rice, or crumbs made from the heels of oldish bread. (Fresh bread crumbs are fine too, as are Progresso’s.) I’ve also used finely chopped nuts in place of or in addition to the bread crumbs or rice. And I always add shredded zucchini and carrots and chopped onions.

Why do I add all of this to my meatloaf? Because I am 100% trying to stretch the meat as much as possible and increase the ratio of the other ingredients to the meat.

My Meatloaf
(with kudos to the Silver Palate’s Italian Meatloaf)

MEATLOAF:
1 medium zucchini
2 medium carrots, peeled
1 large onion, chopped finely
2 pounds ground beef (sirloin works, chuck gives great flavor)
1 egg
2 cups bread crumbs, dried or fresh and/or leftover brown rice
½ cup ketchup
½ cup parsley, finely chopped

FILLING:
1½ cups chopped sundried tomatoes, pitted olives, feta, halloumi or whatever appeals to you from the olive bar.

MIXED WITH
½ cup parsley and/or basil, finely chopped
OR go with the classic and use basil leaves, whole sundried tomatoes and slices of any type of mozzarella

Plus:
4 Yukon gold potatoes, halved and sliced

1 secret ingredient, which is in the body of the recipe

Shred zucchini and carrots with shredding blade of food processor. Place in large bowl with all the other meatloaf ingredients.

Using clean hands, mix meatloaf ingredients together. Mix well, but don’t squeeze the life out of everything. Place two big sheets of plastic wrap on the counter, overlapping to give you a big rectangle. Place meatloaf mixture in middle and pat into a large rectangle.  Spoon over sundried tomato and parsley mixture leaving about an inch border all around. From the short side, roll up the meatloaf, using the plastic wrap to help, and place in a roasting pan, which has been sprayed with nonstick spray.

Surround the meatloaf with the sliced potatoes and spoon half a can or more of condensed tomato soup over the top. Serve whatever is leftover in the can separately. (This is a trick from H’s mother, which shocked me at first. I tried it years ago and I never skip it now. I buried it in the recipe, so you wouldn’t judge me.) 

Note: If canned soup appalls you too much (I do understand), take a small can of diced tomatoes and put it in a glass bowl. Microwave on high for 3 minutes and you’ll get a nicely thickened, chunky tomato pureĆ© that’s also good for the top of the meatloaf.

Bake at 375°F* for one hour, turning the potatoes once during baking.

* You may bake meatloaf at any temperature from 350°F to 400°F without incident. If you need the oven at another temperature, the meatloaf will understand. One hour is about right, but I suppose at 400°F you could check the potatoes and the temp of the meat after 45 minutes. The internal temperature of the meatloaf should 160°F.

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It's only the list of ingredients here that's lengthy. Once you've gathered and chopped up everything, it's easy to proceed. Leave out any vegetables you don’t like, or add in any you love.  

My Minestrone  
2 onions, sliced
¼ green cabbage, sliced
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 stalks celery, sliced
olive oil
handful of white mushrooms, sliced
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. freshly ground pepper
 2 quarts vegetable, chicken or beef stock
1 cup white wine
2 potatoes, any size, peeled, medium diced
1 large can tomatoes OR 2 lbs. fresh tomatoes, chopped
2 zucchini, chopped
thyme, sage + basil, 1 generous tbl. each, if fresh OR 1 generous tsp. dried
1 cup string beans, topped and tailed
1 14 oz. can beans, drained and rinsed under cold water - cannelloni, kidney, chickpeas - your choice

½ cup uncooked elbow pasta, cooked al dente, separately in boiling water*

Soften onions, cabbage, carrots and celery in olive oil on medium heat.  Raise heat to medium high and add mushrooms, salt and pepper.  Cook until mushrooms are just beginning to release liquid.  Add stock and wine, potatoes and canned tomatoes.  Bring to boil.  Add zucchini and string beans.  Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.  Add 1 can beans.  Simmer another 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Add cooked elbows 5 minutes before serving. 

Soup can be frozen when completely cool.

* Always cook the pasta separately and add it just before serving. If you cook the elbows in the minestrone, it will absorb all the liquid.  

NOTE: I like to serve this with large croutes of French bread topped with Emmental.  Cut your bread thickish on an angle.  Top with cheese and place under broiler or in toaster oven until cheese melts.  You only have to cook one side.